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Panniers - Spotlight - Scottoiler - Headlight Electrical Connectors - Rear Brake Shoes - Baghira Mudguard Please be aware that should you choose to use the information below you do so at your own risk!
	Touratech Pannier System For the ultimate in off-the-shelf luggage try the Touratech Zega Pannier System. Touratech have been making specialist luggage for many a year and it suits my purposes more than any other luggage that I've owned, including Rickman, Krauser and Hepco-Becker. The boxes are easy to use, can be modified for a range of locks, and mount in a position which does not restrict a pillion in any way whilst providing a wide flat-ish surface for long bags, tents, etc with handy loops for strapping things down. Not that I need to put a tent across the back, I can get a weekend's worth of camping in the panniers. [top]
	Spotlight Mastiff headlights aren't the most amazing around and the tiny wiring doesn't help. I've replaced the left hand headlight with a car driving light. Conveniently it came with a grill with similar guards to the original lights. The original light is easily removed, and remember to blank off the wiring you no longer need. [top]
	Scottoiler In order to make the chain last longer, consider fitting a Scottoiler. All the necessary parts are included in the basis kit. Here's how I've fitted mine. 1. There's probably no other option than to mount the main unit between the frame and airbox on the left hand side. If you choose to strap in to the frame you'll need to modify the mounting block provided to allow it to fit around one of the cross members at the back of the frame. Alternatively go as I have done and use the double clamp and fix it to the airbox. You'll need to make a hole in the airbox to do this, and it'll be a good idea to put some sealant in the joint.
	2. Remove the tank to provide access to the vacuum take-off above the left-hand inlet duct. Remove the plug in the top of the tube and fit the vacuum damper from the kit into it with the top of the damper pointing to the right hand side of the bike. 3. Connect the Scottoiler to the vacuum damper by passing the vacuum pipe in a smooth curve around the right hand carb, across the top of the air intake ducts and down into the top of the Scottoiler 4. Pass the vent tube over the top of the airbox to carb ducts and down beside the right-hand panel.
	5. Attach the dispenser to the bottom of the swinging arm. Pass the chain oiler tube up through the gap where the subframe bolts to the main frame and trim to fit the the bottom of the main unit. Make sure you spin the wheel a couple of times in both directions to make sure you don't trap the end of the dispenser in the chain!! 6. Fill and prime the system The location of the main unit means there is little head pressure in the system so set the adjustment knob to somewhere near maximum. Take the bike out for a ride and check that you get a wet area around the teeth of the sprocket. If the tyre is getting wet the adjustment is too high, turn it down a little, clean the tyre and try again. It may take a while before the capillery action of the oil to work its way through the linkages to o-rings on the other side of the chain so give it a helping hand by manually oiling the chain lightly once the Scottoiler is set up. [top]
	Headlight electrical connections To improve connectivity and reliability I have made two mods to the wiring in the headlight. The first is to replace the 3 seperate crimps for the headlight bulb with the connector block used on older MZ's. The connectors on the bulb need to be trimmed to allow the crimps to fit! The second is to replace the metal pilot bulb holder with a rubber one as used in the rev counter. I've found that the rubber mount doesn't hold the fitting tight in the shell and bulbs would only last a few weeks before failing. The rubber bulb fitting doesn't fit in the shell on it's own, you need to put a split in the rubber mount and fit the rubber fitting in place of the metal one. You can see how much slack there is when it's all together. Don't forget you'll need to change from a bayonet bulb to a capless type. Later models ('98 - on?) use a different connector which solves both of these issues in one simple circuit board. [top]
	Rear brake pads You'll find it almost impossible to get the pads used in the rear brake from your local dealer. I stopped at an MZ dealer in Germany and they didn't have them either. Instead you need to be looking for a very similar set used on many Kawasaki's including GT550 (front) GPZ 305 (front) and GPZ 500S (front and year depending on year), not to mention various Suzuki's and KTM's. They are identical except for a the height of the pads which you need to file down by 2-3mm. Then simply fit as normal. For reference the original pads are EBC FA173, the alternative is EBC FA67. These pads even have more meat on them so they should last longer. Have a look at the EBC website for more info, and download the EBC bike application catalogue  (a 4.5meg pdf file) for tech details. The picture shows a modified pad to the front and an unmodified pad to the rear. [top]
	Baghira Mudguard Maybe more hassle than it looks at first glance the Baghira mudguard will fit the Mastiff with a bit of time, patience and grinding of teeth. The main problems come from the different steering angle of the Mastiff  causing the Baghira mudguard to potentially rub on the frame downtube and poor routing of the speedo cable. Most of the necessary nuts and bolts come with removing the Mastiff mudguard so it's unlikely you'll need and new fasteners. Please bear in mind that if you remove the front wheel and the forks you will greatly improve access and give you a chance to fit gaiters. Otherwise it goes something like this... 1. Unbolt the Mastiff mudguard from its mounting plate. Remove the mudguard mounting plate. Slacken the fork clamps and lift them upwards to allow you to twist the mudguard out from between the forks. Refit the clamps but make sue they point OUTWARDS rather than inwards or they will foul the Baghira mudguard on full compression. 2. Remove the screws and wire clips for the speedo cable and brake hose. 3. Using the cap screws from the fork clamps and washers and spacers from the Mastiff mudguard fittings fit the Baghira mudguard to the bottom yoke. If the mudguard comes into contact with the frame you will need to pack out the mudguard with a small stack of 6mm (1/4") repair washers on each screw or make a packing plate out of aluminium or a hard plastic.
	4. The brake hose and speedo cable will need to be atleast given new support to allow for the different mudguard, try using pipe clips similar to those on the rear brake hose and attaching them to the screws at the top of the sliders.  If you remove the left-hand fork you can move the brake hose to the outside of the fork  Baghira-style. The speedo cable is a little more problematic in that the speedo is on the opposite side to the drive gears. Use a cable tie or two to secure the cable to the inside of the right-hand fairing may provide needed support. Make sure when you've finished that the cable doesn't get unduly curvey when the forks are compressed and moved from left to right. 5. If you're able to remove both fork legs now is a good time to inspect the fork seals, remove the clamps and fit some fork gaiters. They may be unsightly to some but the fork chrome leaves a little  to be desired. [top]